Estancia Raicilla

I've been in the industry for about a decade now and it's rare for me to taste something and say, "I've genuinely never had something like that before." And that's one of my favorite moments in all the world, and something I'd like to share with you. This is Raicilla: a traditional agave spirit produced in Jalisco using methods that are more in tune with Mezcal than Tequila. Distilled from wild Maximiliana, this undergoes natural fermentation in old Jack Daniels barrels using water from a nearby volcanic mountain spring, then rests in glass carboys. First on the nose is juniper, but less juniper than whole forest: tall evergreens, damp soil, and wild fruit ready to burst. The palate brings in butterscotch, salt, caramel, clove, magic marker, before turning to a bloody note of iron on the lasting finish. The only word I'm left with: Wow.