Bunraku Nihonjin No Wasuremono, Yamahai Junmai

At once rich and dry, savory and crisp, earthy and fruity, this is my favorite saké discovery in a long time. Working in the labor intensive Yamahai style, the Bunraku brewery does a long, slow fermentation with native yeasts rather than the controlled inoculation that dominates the industry. The resulting saké is intensely flavored, showing aromas of beautifully ripe orchard fruit, honeydew, and cocoa powder, turning to a roasted, nutty character on the finish. That profile, combined with a bit more acidity than you'd expect, works especially well with flavors you might not think to pair with a saké. Over the course of a week I drank it with grilled zucchini, barbecue bulgogi, and potato au gratin with mushrooms and gruyere. I loved it every time.