Pouilly-Loché En Chantone, Clos des Rocs - 2022

Never heard of Pouilly-Loché? This tiny Maconnais appellation may lack the visibility of its more famous neighbor Pouilly-Fuissé, but its under-the-radar status means there are real values to be found. It comprises a mere 32 hectares surrounding the small village of Loché, all of which are Chardonnay. The soils are iron-rich clay and limestone producing wines that are leaner than in Pouilly-Fuissé but still quite rich and minerally. Six of those hectares belong to Clos des Rocs, founded in 2002 by Olivier Giroux. He farms biodynamically and uses native yeasts, wanting the terroir to shine.This comes from a small parcel of 90-year-old vines yielding a concentrated, dense wine with ripe apple, citrus, toasted almonds and wet stone. Rich yet fresh, generous yet focused, it's a wine that could easily pass for a bottle at twice the price.