Perricone "Njuro," Il Censo - 2016

If you’re wondering why the label for this wine looks like one of the Paolo Bea wines it’s because Il Censo winemaker Gaetano Gargano studied under Giampiero Bea for decades and they use the same artist (and have the same commitment to excellence, which is apparent with one sip of this stunner). Produced exclusively from the Perricone grape, also known in local dialect as “njuro cane” (the black dog), vineyards are farmed organically and grapes are harvested manually. Fermentation occurs over two to three weeks with indigenous yeasts and minimal or no use of sulfur and without temperature control; the wine is neither fined nor filtered before bottling. Crunchy, brambly fruits harmonize with hints of fennel bulb, crushed mint, wild flowers, and a touch of smoke. Chewy tannins and ultra-fresh acidity bring it all home. Drink now or hold.