Clémence Roussette, Cellier des Cray - 2018

There's something about mountain wines that I find irresistible. Maybe it's the high-altitude brightness that I fall for, but this is always terroir I always want to know. The Savoie region of eastern France long churned out simple apres-ski wines, but like so many under-the-radar regions they've upped their game and are reaching an international audience. Adrien Berlioz is one of Savoie's rising stars. In 2006 he took over his family's winery in the tiny village of Chignin. He has a mere 4.5 ha on steep calcerous clay soils and farms as naturally as the weather and grapes allow. Clemence is 100% Altesse aka Rousette and shows lovely notes of honey, hazelnuts, pear skin. Six months on the lees lends the wine a lovely textured richness, yet it remains as light and bright as mountain air. Delicious!